Museu do Ar: A Dakota For Portugal

A palpable sense of honor hangs in the air of the voluminous display hangar at the Sintra Air Base in Portugal. Just north of Lisbon, the air base hosts the nation’s air force training academy, as well as its flagship museum, the Museu do Ar (Museum of the Air, in Portuguese).

Within the main hangar and its neighbors, hundreds of noteworthy, historic, and inspiring aircraft stand waiting to help inform the curious—and the young—of the history of aviation in Portugal, and its influence on the world. Though those outside Portugal often equate its exploratory prowess with its efforts on the seas, its forays into the air—and the annals of history—began in the early days of aviation itself, and grew to prominence in the golden age of aviation, before World War II, and post-war, as Portugal used airplanes to tie together its former colonies in Africa.

You may not know, for example, that the Portuguese were among the first to cross the Atlantic—years before Lindbergh’s solo flight—as they sought passage to Brazil from Europe. In fact, the aviators Gago Coutinho and Sacadura Cabral made the first crossing of the South Atlantic in 1922, flying in segments from Lisbon to Rio de Janeiro using three different Fairey III biplanes.

But among the museum’s proudest airplanes, looking over all of its fleet, my pick must be the Douglas C-47A Dakota. She forms the center of an exhibit that not only tells the airframe’s story, but also the story of TAP, the airline of Portugal, and those that flew her.

When a group of volunteers looked around for a Douglas DC-3 or its equivalent military model to restore in honor of TAP’s 70th anniversary in March 2015, they couldn’t find an example that had actually flown for the airline. All had been withdrawn from use or otherwise lost. Instead, the group found the C-47A used by the DGA (Direcção Geral de Aviação), the former authority governing aviation in Portugal. Its Douglas construction number, 19503, last carried the registration CS-DGA.

To reflect the dual purpose that the airplane would have in the museum, the group decided to give her two faces: one, the airmarkings of the DGA to suit her original mission, and the other, the classic TAP livery, to glorify the history of the airline. On the TAP side of her tail, she carries the registration CS-TDE to signify “Transporte” “Dakota” and “E,” the fifth letter of the alphabet, as she was refurbished to resemble the fifth airplane in the TAP fleet.

Inside and out, a team led by current TAP captain Carlos Tomaz bestowed great care on her refurbishment. Tomaz would dearly love to return her to flying status, but for now she serves as an educational platform and living part of history central to the museum. Periodically, the group hosts “Dakota Talks” to share stories from her past, and those of the other DC-3s and C-47s operated by Portuguese airlines, military, and governmental agencies.

The Dakota at the Museu do Ar in Sintra, Portugal, displays TAP vintage colors

For more information on the Vintage Aero Club and the Dakota restoration:

http://grupodakotatap.wordpress.com

http://vintageaeroclub.wordpress.com

D-Day Squadron: 2018

Every airplane tells a story, both as you approach it, through its lines, its condition, its patina of paint, as well as in flight, by the weight of the cargo and mission it has borne.

Every airplane that flew during the Normandy Invasion, on D-Day, June 6, 1944, executing any number of the individual missions of the day, carried far more than that. They carried their men inside, whether pilot or maintenance chief, paratrooper or glider crew on a string. On board one of the Douglas C-47s that flew that day, even to this day, you can smell the sweat and the fear and the hope that this long shot would work.

Every airplane tells its own piece of a greater story. So to bring more than three dozen of them together for the 75th anniversary of that fateful day means more than just a sum of the logistics and collaboration, the pride and even vanity of accomplishing yet another transatlantic crossing in a classic warbird. That’s why, come 2019, the gathering will feature everyone’s collective effort, as C-47s such as Placid Lassie, operated by the D-Day Squadron (an arm of the Tunison Foundation based in Georgia), make the once—now twice–in-a-lifetime trip.

Daks Over Normandy staged a gathering of D-Day airplanes at Cherbourg in June 2013 to commemorate 70 years since the invasion. While poignant and well-received, the experience that the person on the ground and outside the airport fence could have with the airplanes and their crew lacked the engagement that the organizers hoped for. Restrictions at the French airfield made it nearly impossible for folks outside the flight crews to visit the airplanes, to see them up close, to smell, touch, and even taste the stories emanating from within.

To solve this missed opportunity, Daks Over Normandy and its partner organizations plan two parts to the 2019 event. The first will bring the North American based aircraft over the pond into Duxford, England, via the northern route, currently planned to depart from the Waterbury-Oxford Airport in Connecticut and fly via Presque Isle, Maine; Goose Bay, Labrador; Bluie One West (now Narsarsuaq airfield, in Greenland); Reykjavik, Iceland;  Ireland, and then on into England. While lighter aircraft with less range make the crossing all the time, doing so requires not only a lot of investment ($75,000 to $100,000 per airplane) but also logistics such as staging enough avgas at Narsarsuaq to service the series of C-47s and DC-3s with their large fuel tanks. Even so, the participating airplanes will make the trip in flights of 3 to reduce the load on the single fuel truck stationed there.

The second event recreates the invasion itself, in modern form, with the aircraft departing the south of England for the Normandy coast on the eve of the anniversary itself for fly-bys and parachute drops in France over the following days. While in France this time, the aircraft will base out of Caen, and total 36 in number, including aircraft planning to come in from as far as South Africa.

Placid Lassie may be known to folks as Union Jack Dak, for the UK flag it wore on its fuselage following its initial  a few years back. In her wartime livery, she flew in all manner of operations in the European Theater during the war. She’ll be joined by Virginia Ann, a C-47 from California, a veteran of Market Garden as well, and the Liberty Foundation’s C-47 that was used to recover parts from Glacier Girl in Greenland’s ice—among many others.

The founders of the D-Day Squadron plan more events around and following the anniversary commemoration, starting with a formation flight near Manhattan prior to the crossing, and a visit to Berlin to honor those who served post-war in the Berlin Airlift. ”We’ll start in war and finish in peace,” said Eric Zipkin, chief pilot for the group. And, if all goes according to plan, about 10 of the airplanes will fly to Oshkosh 2019 to close the chapter—and continue the D-Day Squadron’s continuing mission of education and outreach. To this end, the D-Day Squadron is recruiting one veteran and one student from each of the 50 states to experience the D-Day flyover in France.

As we remember D-Day today, in 2018, preparations have long been underway for next year’s extravaganza. While the organization actively seeks sponsorship and likely has key players on board by the time you read this, you too can help to support their mission. Visit ddaysquadron.org for more information.

Airlift Uplift

This is the way it should feel. This is the way it *did* feel. And it was good to get that feeling back.

I had plans to go to Wichita last weekend to take care of lingering business in town, and to see some of the warm and wonderful friends that I’ve made there. I also knew that the Citation Special Olympics Airlift (CSOA) [http://www.kake.com/home/headlines/Kansas-athletes-transported-to-2014-Special-Olympics-for-free-263166621.html] would launch that Saturday. I’ve been blessed to be part of the event (in which more than 100 private aircraft owners volunteer their airplanes and crews to fly roughly 700 Special Olympics athletes from around the country to the summer games) in 2006 [http://www.aopa.org/News-and-Video/All-News/2006/September/1/The-Wings-of-a-Dove.aspx] and 2010.

The CSOA has held a special place in my heart as one of the best examples of participation-based corporate and philanthropic leadership. Many of the Citation owners involved fly their own aircraft and make it a non-negotiable part of their calendars to spend two Saturdays in June ferrying athletes and their coaches cross country. For corporate owners, the flight departments often take the lead, and crews compete for the opportunity to volunteer.

None of these folks do it for glory or self promotion. They do it because of the feeling.

So when we were planning the weekend’s events, a friend I was staying with mentioned that she had volunteered to be part of the Textron Aviation crowd at the send-off for the Kansas Special Olympics athletes. She then said, “You should come.” I jumped at the chance.

I had not been back inside the Hex at Cessna since leaving the company in January 2012, but it took me back to the first time I was there. The Hex is the nickname for the customer delivery hangar at Cessna’s main corporate office at Mid-Continent Airport (KICT). This is also where the company has traditionally gathered for very special events.

When we arrived, just after 8 am, on the 14th, the athletes were already in the Hex enjoying a light breakfast before departure. In as much stealth as a couple hundred happy folks can muster, we gathered outside the hangar doors on the ramp in front of three CJs. We practiced our cheers, and the way we would “part the seas” for the athletes and coaches as they came out to the airplanes.

Then, the magic moment. The hangar doors lifted [http://instagram.com/p/pWYXxizWLh/] and the athletes saw their “rides” for the first time. For many, it would be their first trip on an airplane. For all of us in the volunteer crowd, who love aviation and know its worth, it was a validation of that worth, and acknowledgment of the effort the athletes had made to arrive at that moment.

That feeling, that you’re part of something bigger, something worth more than a stock price, is what had made me proud to be a Cessnan. It was real joy.

I challenge every aviation company to put that value first. It may just be what saves us.

from June 17, 2014

We’ve Got Your Six

The formation of ten wheelchairs lined the jet bridge as we disembarked in Dallas after the flight from Paris. After ten hours folded into an economy seat, I no longer felt the need to complain about my minor aches and fatigue upon seeing that reminder.

For each chair in that lineup represented a man who had survived D’Embarquement–D-Day–and the ensuing 70 years. Each one had made the journey to France for the 70th anniversary of the invasion, and each was flying back home on American Airlines Flight 49 that day.

They went to close a chapter, to seek recompense, to reunite with friends [http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/10881513/Pensioner-who-hid-medals-and-absconded-from-care-home-found-at-D-Day-celebrations-in-France.html], and above all, to honor the memory of brothers who ran up those beaches never to leave.

It was gratifying to see these men, now outwardly so fragile in many cases, admired for the strength they still held inside, and their commitment to cause and country decades ago. But just as old photographs make clear, it’s incorrect to think of those actions and choices in black and white. Instead, they come back as memories properly layered in shades of grey. We saw evidence of this throughout the week in Normandy. And it was easy to read in the faces of these men as they travelled back to the United States.

The last time most of the vets walked the streets of towns like Sainte Mere Eglise and Sainte Marie du Mont, they walked past bombed out buildings, and the rubble of the homes of families just like theirs back home. What a jolt it must have been to see those streets again, now full of waving flags and cheering faces. It brings color back to those memories to know we too survived, as free countries, and friends.

We gave our heroes a healthy round of applause as we arrived at the gate; it seemed so little compared to the sacrifice, but the least we could do. It made my heart glad to see the kind treatment continue from the airline’s team as these gentlemen came off the airplane and made their way through immigration and customs with expedited care. May blessings follow these heroes on their journey home.

from June 10, 2014

Tolling of the Bells

The church bells rang for more than 15 minutes this morning at 9 am in Cherbourg, France. They rang out across the harbor as it woke for the day. They rang out across the hills that top the peninsula and out across the sea. They rang so clearly I swear you might have heard them in Portsmouth. Oh, that you could.

The bells rang today for freedom, and for a mission that cost so much yet still chalked up success in so many ways. The most important? That 70 years later, the leaders of the countries that participated in this crucial moment all came together to commemorate the loss and the gain from the calculus of choices made.

We set out from Le Havre to Cherbourg before 6 am, leaving early in the morning so that we could cross the Pont de Normandie [http://instagram.com/p/o6xR5JTWJp/] as the sun rose. With Obama, Hollande, Merkl, Cameron, and Putin (to name a few) gathering on the beaches and cemeteries of Normandy, the Calvados region was on lock down for most of the day. With most of France’s gendarmarie in force, little seemed left to chance. But the places we chose to celebrate felt untouched by martial intervention. Indeed, that “Liberte, Egalitie, Fraternite” spirit carried the day…helped along by copious cups of beer and wine and Coca-Cola.

From Cherbourg we went out to the airport at Malpertus to watch the C-47 “Whiskey 7” and 2 C-130s assemble for their overflight of the region [http://instagram.com/p/o6yKqzzWLF/]. Though the only view we had was through the fence, it still made my heart glad to hear those rumbling engines over the French countryside. We are so lucky here in the United States for the access we enjoy–but that’s another story.

After the takeoff, we hopped in the Peugeot and drove down to Sainte Mere-Eglise. As luck would have it, we reached the exit off the N13 in time to see the three-ship cross in front of us on its way to overfly the town. Once there, we joined the festival atmosphere, as all countries bonded in the spirit of the day.

We then headed a few kilometers to Sainte Marie du Mont, the closest major town to Utah Beach. The church there sits on the town plaza, with leafy trees surrounding its Renaissance bell tower [http://instagram.com/p/o6zpBRzWNC/]. Those bells rang the hour of 6 pm, with a full 18 hours of D-Day behind us, and so many parts of the mission complete against all odds, and many more to come.

from June 6, 2014

Before I Sleep

Tonight is the night that most of our young men won’t go to sleep.

The ones who are already queuing for the airplanes that will carry them into war certainly won’t sleep for a day or more. Or they will sleep forever.

The ones who wait for their ships to sail before sunrise won’t sleep either, anxious for the mission that lies ahead. Those who are already on their ships and were called to wait haven’t slept for days.

From this vantage point in France, in only an hour and a half, we’ll mark the 70th anniversary of the arrival of the 6th Division of British airborne troops, the Red Berets [http://www.memorial-pegasus.org/mmp/division_aeroportee/index.php?lang=uk], whose mission it was to drop near the bridges over the Orne at Ranville, and the Caen canal at Benouville, and secure those bridges without harming them. They would arrive in Horsa and Hamilcar gliders, led by Major General Richard Gale.

They succeeded in their mission, securing what we now call the Pegasus Bridge [http://instagram.com/p/o4EYePTWGK/] and ensuring Allied vehicles had a point to cross the canal.

So many would die in this mission, as part of the heavy price we paid on all sides for liberation from a terrible scheme.

Today we spent in Bayeux, a town preserved as though in amber, with its majestic cathedral [http://instagram.com/p/o4FAxSzWHi/] intact, spared from the heaviest blows either side could muster. Walking its charming streets was like stepping back in time.

Tonight, I go to sleep in Le Havre, which suffered devastating bombardment months after D-Day, as the port city was laid waste. It has risen from those ashes to bathe in the coastal light and carry on. Its cathedral [http://instagram.com/p/o4Fb20zWIQ/] is a modernist monument to this rebirth.

When we wake tomorrow, we’re sure to find a similar fierce light of dawn.

from June 5, 2014

The Convoy

We passed the first of the slow-moving vehicles on the A13 winding through Calvados on our way to the beaches this morning. From miles back, I figured there had been an accident, and I braced myself for whatever miscreancy of traffic awfulness I was in for, while my husband slept off jet lag in the right seat.

Fortunately, the hold-up was merely a set of Jeeps, something that looked like a souped-up Bug, and a Deuce-and-a-half trying to keep up with the 130-kmh posted autoroute speed through some leftover rain washing over the coast. My mood lightened back to festival mode, and I wondered how we ever get so hung up on traffic jams when there is usually a good reason why they happen. Like a four-some of re-enactors driving up to Bayeux for the 70th anniversary of the Normandy Invasion.

We’d planned our trip here for months, and it started off without a hitch. The flights executed according to plan, and the exit from Paris via rental car went exceedingly well, considering we showed up with a borrowed Michelin map of France and no Euros in our collective pockets. We stopped for the night after driving about one-third of the distance to the coast, and we made up for it with an afternoon-long cruise down the coastal road, D514, stopping at each crucial spread of sand along the way.

We started at Grandcamp-Maisy, nearest to La Pointe du Hoc, the site of a critical mission for the 2nd Ranger Battalion, led by James Earl Rudder [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Earl_Rudder] and charged with securing one of the most difficult pieces of property on the coast. As we looked out over those cliffs, buffeted by wind and seeking shelter in pile after pile of leftover German installations, I couldn’t help but think, “Why was this point in the plan? Why not leave most of the power coming ashore over the paths of least resistance, like the flat beaches to the north, at Gold, Juno, and Sword?”

But I understand now that the psychological advantage of subduing your enemy where he least expects damage, where he has the most protection, is worth a multiplier to the easy battles won.

So we started our own convoy with other rental cars (I know you, silver Peugeot 308) at that toughest spot, and wound our way east until we reached those seemingly calmer beaches. And through that journey, we recognized that the fight was engaged at the same pitch no matter the field upon which it was fought.

from June 4, 2014

The Armband

From its perch in the sterile glass case, the armband draws you in.

Printed with bright red bars and a blue field to outline the Stars and Stripes of the American flag, the broad armband was manufactured in great numbers for use by the U.S. forces in all manner of operations for World War II, the most famous of which was Operation Overlord. We have turned the generic term “D-Day” into a reference to this monumental invasion. Not all armbands were worn on that mission; most were worn to signify pilots operating American airplanes, and by troops in various engagements to follow, such as Market Garden, and Varsity.

Printed on an ivory oil-impregnated cloth to withstand the rigors of war, to resist water, mud, and blood, and prevent it from being torn too readily from its host, the armbands survived, including this one, worn in Overlord and on display at the National Air & Space Museum’s Udvar-Hazy Center [http://airandspace.si.edu/visit/udvar-hazy-center/] in northern Virginia, within striking distance of Washington’s Dulles airport.

Printed by the box-full, they remain as reminders of the arms they circled, young, strong arms, of men who were courageous to blatantly foolhardy and recruited for the invasion in part for their lack of emotional knowledge of the horrors to come.

Printed to be pinned on around a boy’s sleeve, held by a safety pin. I now think of that same style of pin which holds my race bib on Memorial Day as I prepare to run the Bolder Boulder 10K [www.bolderboulder.com], running next to Marines, who too are there to honor our war dead. Those whose armbands were buried with them, never to return from France.

The armband evokes the immediate, intimate feeling that it once wrapped some son’s bicep, that son who would fight his way on shore, through the waves and across the shingle to meet fate. One last preparation before climbing off the boat into the water. One last moment of connection before the battle begun.

from May 30, 2014

Crossing the Pond

It’s one thing to conquer the Atlantic lounging in seat 12A on an American Airlines 777, and quite another to shepherd a part of history (all 70+ year old, 24,000-odd pounds of her) through a similar mission…

So, congratulations to two Douglas C-47 crews (and their supporting teams) on their respective successful transatlantic crossings this month! The crew of Whiskey 7 [www.rtn2014.org/whiskey7.html] just reached their destination of Duxford, England [http://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-duxford], on May 23 in time for its airshow over the weekend. The crew of Union Jack Dak [https://www.flickr.com/photos/egbe-enthusiasts/13967383899/in/set-72157644597348802] arrived at Coventry Airport on May 10.

Even for a pilot with a lot of experience flying the DC-3 type, this achievement is significant, and particularly so more than 70 years after the airplane’s first flight. Most of the DC-3s and C-47s today fly short hops, over land, and rarely stray too far from a maintenance base. To cross the Atlantic now in these aircraft, you must prepare as though again mustering for an invasion, though the mission is nowhere near as hazardous.

Union Jack Dak (now N74589) and Whiskey 7 (now N345AB) followed different plot lines in post-war service, but they each played an important part in the Normandy Invasion and survived to tell their tales. Union Jack Dak came to the US Army Air Corps as 42-24064 in 1942 out of the Douglas plant at Long Beach, California, and she was assigned to the 437th Troop Carrier Group. She flew over to England and was based at RAF Aldermaston [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAF_Aldermaston] to prep for the invasion. On June 6, 1944, she and her group towed Waco CG4A gliders over Normandy.

Whiskey 7 is a 1943 C-47A that registered as 43-30652 out of Long Beach in September of that year. She was the lead ship for the second wave of the airborne thrust out of RAF Cottesmore [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAF_Cottesmore], and dropped paratroops from the 3rd Battalion, 505th Parachute Infantry Regiment of the 82nd Airborne Division. Her target? Drop Zone “O” near Sainte Mere Eglise, at which the unit successfully landed on that early morning, one of the few units to hit the planned target. Later that year, she was part of a section that towed gliders in Operation Market Garden over the Netherlands and Germany.

Both airplanes will join the Daks Over Normandy event [www.daksovernormandy.com] in the coming weeks, and we will share in the emotion and reverence those days shall surely bring. That they each made this incredible journey stands as testimony to the dedication of a lot of folks who worked hard to make it happen. Well done.

from May 24, 2014

Lay of the Land

Plans are everything before the battle and useless once it is joined.

Those words, attributed to General Dwight Eisenhower, proved heartbreakingly true for the invasion forces on D-Day. The command spent countless hours in the preceding months laying out the actions that each company would take as it landed in its sector (labeled Charlie-Dog-Easy-Fox, then Red-Green-White at Omaha Beach). Each had specific orders for regrouping the men, what terrain they would see ahead, and what equipment they would use to penetrate it. The mission: Firing up the draws and blowing up obstacles to clear the way for the tanks and other critical land vehicles that followed behind them.

But on that day, the men who made it ashore rarely landed where the generals’ maps placed them.

The best-laid plans can go awry for a variety of predictable reasons, and a million ones you cannot foresee. A handful will nail you, and their impact will be significant. What planning does is give us a template for seeking information, a schedule of training so we have actions memorized, indeed, muscle memory upon which to rely, and patterns to amend to the actual conditions.

All of that planning was not for naught, when those companies came ashore in the wrong sectors, sometimes a kilometer or more off the mark. In fact, when a man saw a steeple rising above the town ahead, he knew immediately that something was wrong: Either the aerial bombardment had not achieved its goal of destroying that likely enemy observation post, or the town was not the town expected on the soldier’s map. Equally unlucky, but that information was a far cry more useful to the man than not knowing he should look for a steeple at all.

Knowing the lay of the land doesn’t truly happen until you land. Another assumption made with critical consequences was the composition of the hedgerows seen in airborne intelligence photos. The men had just experienced the English hedgerows in their field simulations in Britain, those hedgerows forming a frangible barrier that horses could jump during a hunt, perhaps. The French hedgerow in the Calvados region was a far more formidable construction, built to keep livestock within a field, and made of mounds of solid earth topped by brambly thatch. Daunting at best to climb over, and murderous to the glider pilots attempting to land among them.

Though our simulations and the planning that drives them are more sophisticated now, they still rely heavily on the correct intelligence, and the right estimates about what can go differently. The men at Omaha Beach had a situation outside of that known simulation–and had to rely wholly on the skills and leadership they brought to the terrain they found upon reaching the sand.

from May 17, 2014